Authenticity Standards
Last updated: November 2024
Purpose of this Document
This document will serve as the guideline by which we asses our authenticity as members of this group. It is subject to change as needed. Members are expected to keep up to date on any changes.
The purpose of setting these standards is make clear what our expectations are to all members, both present and future.
Rather than exclude newcomers, we provide these guidelines so they may know where they can seek help when starting out. We are here to help you be the best looking viking you can be. Approach any member with questions, concerns, uncertainties. If they don't have your answer they will know who to direct you to.
Gearing for an event
Any new kit should be approved before a public event. This can be accomplished by sending a picture of your kit to the event organizer or any senior member of the group.
Also note that we have a stock of loaner gear available including belts, shoes, tunics and pants. If you need a piece or two for an event, make it known on the event planning page.
Checks day of will be performe by event organisers and their delegates. Also, all members are encouraged to check in with each other if they are uncertain or see something outside our standards
Level of Authenticity by Event
Public paid events - Our highest standards apply
Small appearances (weddings, unpaid renfests, parades ) - here the public is interested in the aesthetic but not authenticity. We can make reasonable accommodations for comfort and safety. For instance, parades (especially in cold/inclement weather) will allow for modern footwear.
Private events - crafting days etc have no expectation of Authenticity (but we always appreciate showing off kit). Private gatherings with camp and/or multigroup involvement will be determined on an event by event basis or subject to the standards of the host group.
Medical devices
Hearing aids, glasses and other medical assistive devices are necessary for those who need them. We will always allow such devices regardless of how they would conflict with authenticity.
Camp
Camp items should show a level of viking hand craftedness without visible modern nails, screws, bolts etc.
Modern items must be hidden during public hours. At most events there will be tents specified for hiding modern items.
Certain reenactorisms and extrapolations are allowed. This can include things like rawhide lanterns and straw hats, or furniture like tables with designs not specifically supported by historical precedent.
Members should always ask if there is an alternative that looks better available before using an unapproved item in camp.
Clothing Standards
Stitching
We encourage people to try having hand stitching on potentially visible seams (i.e. on wrist cuffs, necklines and hems) but understand that machine is the most viable for some members.
High contrast stitching is discouraged.
Colours/patterns
Garments need to be reflective of the time period, ideally based on specific finds or patterns with precedent in period.
Modern dyes that create colours achievable with available natural dyes are acceptable. Senior members can be consulted on colours.
Footwear
Shoes/boots must be made of natural materials and based off appropriate patterns. Rubber soles and heels for safety and comfort are allowed.
Barefoot is acceptable in camp.
Young children may wear any footwear as their parents/guardians approve.
Jewellery
Should be based off finds and made of some sort of metal alloy. Jewellery should also match the status of the rest of the kit.
Personal non-period jewellery (earrings, other piercings) should kept discrete.
Hair
We do not disallow any specific hair style or colour. However we encourage members with hair dyed in non-natural colours to be open to wearing headwear.
Fighting Kit
Helmets
Must be 14 gauge steel or thicker, culturally appropriate to the rest of your kit. For instance, those presenting as Slav, Rus or other eastern european cultures from the time period should have helmets that match. With the limited finds available, most fighters will be expected to be wearing a variant of the gjermundbu helmet or some manner of spangenhelm or Norman helmet.
Helmets may have additional eye/mouth protection in the form of cages, eye guards or fencing face masks. Note that other groups may not permit these at their events.
Butted aventails are acceptable but flat riveted are preferred.
Helmets must appear well maintained. Rust removal and any repairs should be completed prior to every event.
HEMA Fencing masks are only permitted for huskarl combat (full target rule set).
Torso protection
Steel butted chainmail with elbow length sleeves and a skirt ending at the mid thigh are acceptable. Nonferrous metals such as aluminum or zinc are not permitted.
Leather arm guards must also be hidden.
Leather lamellar or chest pieces are not permitted.
Anyone intending to wear metal lamellar should make every attempt to portray a culture in the time period that has definite evidence of having used such armour (i.e. Rus).
Modern material protection is permissible if it is hidden beneath an outer tunic, klappenrock, caftan or similar garment. This includes shin, knee, arm and elbow guards as well as any additional covering a fighter wishes to wear, so long as it is not visible to the public.
Hand Protection
Gloves must provide adequate protection to the hands to prevent injury from unintended hits by weapons such as swords, axes or two-handed dane axes.
Gloves must present their outermost layer as either leather or maille. Hidden reinforcements are encouraged. Any style of glove (i.e. clamshell, mitten or reinforced articulated leather) is permitted if it is leather or maille on the outermost layer
No modern construction gloves, i.e. hockey gloves or plastic fencing gloves. Natural colour modern leather gloves (i.e. leather work gloves) are permitted for shield hands
Footwear
Shoes must be made of leather and in the style of a culturally appropriate shoe or boot. Toggles should be made of leather.
While leather soles are preferred, shoes may have rubberized soles and heels as is most comfortable for an individual.
Any protection that can fit into a permitted shoe (i.e. tae kwon do foot protectors) are permitted. Every effort must be made to make them hidden within the shoe, i.e. by wearing naalbound socks
Modern shoes are not permitted. Modern boots with toe caps are not permitted as they pose a hazard to all other fighters.
Weapons
This portion is strictly addressing the appearance of weapons. Safety requirements are covered by the combat safety guidelines.
Weapons should be characteristic of examples found and appropriate to the culture the fighter is portraying. Some variations in weight and dimensions are permitted. Crossguards and pommels should be representative of swords found within their respective cultures in the time period.
Weapons must be made of natural materials.
Handles should be made of wood. For wooden hafts like on axes or spears, stitched leather or rawhide reinforcement is permitted. Seaxes may have antler handles.
All weapons should appear well maintained. Burr filing, rust removal and oiling should be done before every public appearance.
Shields
This portion is strictly addressing the appearance of shields. Safety requirements are covered by the combat safety guidelines.
Appropriate shield styles include the typical viking ‘round shield’ and the later norman ‘kite shield.’ Other styles of shield can be assessed based on appropriateness to the culture being portrayed.
Shields must be made of wood. Butted planks are preferred but plywood such as baltic birch is acceptable, especially in the case of first shields built by new fighters.
Rims must be covered in leather or rawhide, preferably from a leather supply. Rims can be stitched on or secured with rivets made of iron, brass, copper or another appropriate metal.
Shields are to be faced with either leather or linen, glued and painted with either black paint in the case of new fighters or the approved green and white colours representative of the group. Shields in green and white should be in a 6 sectioned alternating ‘pinwheel’ pattern.
Handles must be made of wood and secured with non-galvanized iron nails or riveted with appropriate metal rivets. Handle length is dictated by shield size and should occupy most of the diameter of the shield.